An assignment for the Feature Writing module of my third year. An open brief was given to write a 1000 word feature on the Northern Quarter, an edgy area of Manchester full of independent outlets and a strong alternative identity. The angle was up to you. I chose to write about Tib Street, one of the main arteries flowing through and epitomising the character of the area.
“I’ve always found Oldham Street a bit too edgy for me, a bit rough and the thing I like about Tib Street is that it’s just very characteristic of the eclecticism of the Northern Quarter,” reflects Vibhatika Webb, a 34 year old support worker who moved to Manchester 12 years ago and has been frequenting Manchester’s cultural hub for over twice as many years.
We are walking down Tib Street on an unusually glorious day in the middle of April. Starting from the top, the walk has taken us past Debenhams and the red burger van on the corner of Market Street and Piccadilly Gardens, the smell of greasy beef burgers and hot dogs wafting through our nostrils.
“I remember coming [to the Northern Quarter] as a child and there were lots of warehouses. My mum used to run a catalogue business and buy stuff direct from the warehouses and sell it to her friends. We used to come and I just remember it being really run down, we’re talking 20 years ago now, actually more like 25 come to think of it,” she giggles.
We are led further down the street past the prominent presence of Affleck’s Palace, Manchester’s very own albeit smaller, more compact version of Camden Market. Containing a mish-mash of stalls independently run and selling all manner of things from the coolly kitsch to the downright bizarre crammed across 3 floors. It is a favourite among those searching for that little something with a difference you can’t find in the indentikit high streets stores across the country.
“When I was 14 back in 1986, Affleck’s Palace was the place to get your clothes, it was open well before that and sometime shortly after that it got burnt down and it changed building – it was across the road where the car park is and I think the remains of the original building are still there,” Vibhatika informs me.
In addition to Affleck’s Palace, Tib Street is a bustling haven of trendy hair salons and fashionable shops selling vintage clothing, flowers, records, exotic pets, sex toys, as well as a couple of hip bars and even a launderette. It even boasts Manchester’s only Jazz club – Matt & Phred’s. Along with Oldham Street, Tib Street, once famous for being lined with a number of pet shops forms the main artery which flows through the heart of the Northern Quarter.
“Interestingly enough there’s not a lot of bars down there it’s all flower shops and hairdressers etc and they’re all independently run and I think that’s quite unusual in a city centre and that’s what I like about it. They’re small businesses based on people having a mad idea and thinking ‘oh, I’ll open a shop.’
“And it’s also still a bit seedy down there. I like the rawness of it, there’s something quite honest about the energy,” asserts Vibhatika.
And indeed Johnny, manager of sex shop Love Boutique, would have to agree.
“The atmosphere down Tib Street, it’s a bit Soho-y,” he says.
Love Boutique is a hot pink sex emporium with an innocent heart in the window display but showcasing rather more explicit implements inside. Giant dildos line the walls along with fetish clothing, whips, fantasy dressing up costumes and kinky boots.
“Sex always sells doesn’t it,” Johnny assures me, “What sort of clientele do we have? All sorts, every single walk of life comes in here.”
Has anyone famous ever come in here, I ask curiously. “I couldn’t possibly tell you,” resists Johnny, but after much cajoling reveals, “I’ve got an ex member of Oasis who’s a regular and a news reader for North West Tonight on the BBC.”
Not Gordon Burns, surely?
“No, it’s another guy but I’m not going to say his name. And I’m not telling you what they’ve purchased, that I definitely can’t say!”
The charm of Tib Street is apparent on a sunny day like today. The brightly coloured shop fronts are a world apart from the brand saturated Market Street and the varying nature of the businesses along here each have a unique touch which whilst firmly stamping their individuality make it work in bringing a cohesion to the street.
Another little gem on the street, if you want your washing done that is, is the White Peg Laundry Company. Since it opened 4 years ago everyone from Motley Crue to Dolly Parton’s drummer via Meatloaf, Tom Jones and Mani have had their smalls washed here.
“There was nowhere in town to get your clothes washed and laundered and my husband and I thought if we’re going to start a business let’s start this,” tells me Louise, who runs it.
Inside the place itself is quite small but has friendly vibe about it with artwork on the wall from local artist Paula MacNamara who is also an illustrator for Vogue and is friends with Louise. And that sums up the character of this street – it’s very village-y, they all know each other.
“I’ve always liked the Northern Quarter, I like the bars, I like the people, and everyone on Tib Street is really friendly and helps out with each other. We’re neighbours we all get on and if there is anything I need help with I can get it from one of the other shops and vice versa,” says Louise, smiling.
“In fact all the furniture in Centro Bar, a few doors down, is supplied by my mum and dad who deal with antiques and the chef just dropped off his whites earlier today so we all do work for each other,” she adds.
Vibhatika and I head down to check out Centro. It’s a cool bar with a laidback vibe and good music offering reasonably priced food which comes highly recommended by Vibhatika.
“It’s the whole lazy vibe of the Northern Quarter I like,” Ben Price, who works at Centro tells me.
“When Common first opened round the corner, the bouncers were told to not let in anyone who looked too smart, like they’d made too much of an effort. It’s the complete opposite of places like Deansgate Locks.”
Tib Street may not have as many pet shops as it once did but now it certainly has more than its fair share of hairdressers along the street. Georgina has been working at Olivier Morosini’s salon for just 7 weeks but has already fallen in love with the area.
“There is no other street like it in Manchester. It’s like a village street and everyone that comes in here knows everyone,” she says.
“And we get all sorts of people come in who are really cool. A guy came in the other day who works for The Coral and wanted me to go down to London to cut their hair but unfortunately I was unavailable,” she continues, “They were down there supporting the Arctic Monkeys and I could’ve got free tickets to the show!”
Vibhatika and I head back up towards Piccadilly Gardens as my tour of Tib Street draws to a close. I had never before stopped to take in the charm and atmosphere of the street beyond Affleck’s Palace, at least not during the daytime.
“That’s the thing about the Northern Quarter; you find gems that you didn’t know were there,” says Vibhatika.
And I couldn’t agree more.
Tuesday, 28 August 2007
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